The Sweatshirt V-Notch Edition

Colin here. In December, while in Tokyo, I visited the Loopwheeler store in Sendagaya. In an earlier WITI, I wrote about their beautiful and deliberately inefficient approach to weaving, and the resulting exceptional fabric:

“Just as a wine's flavor profile is based on the climate and soil conditions, this fabric had a 'terroir' of sorts, based on its manufacturing origin. As these machines are replaced with more efficient ones, the materials they created are once again prized and in-demand."

Since then, I've explored various manufacturers who excel at this craft. I've tried products from the leading makers: Loopwheeler in Japan, Merz b. Schwanen in Germany (known for their The Bear white t-shirt), and Velva Sheen (whose sweatshirts are made in Japan using US-grown cotton on loopwheel machines, and available here). Of these, the Velva Sheen sweatshirts have become my favorite. And one detail in particular caught my attention.

All these sweatshirts feature a "V-notch" in the front. While it appears as a casual detail distinguishing a sweatshirt from a sweater, it originally served several practical purposes.

According to Russell Athletic:

"Today [it’s] a fashion statement, but when Benjamin Russell invented the sweatshirt in 1926, the V-notch had a practical purpose. The sweatshirt was originally created as a football jersey, and the V-notch was designed with a thicker piece of cotton to soak up sweat. Additionally, the reinforced stitching helped maintain shape around the neck."

Why is this interesting?

I'm fascinated by features that begin as purely functional elements and evolve into aesthetic choices. Many modern V-notches are purely decorative, mimicking the original design without serving its practical purpose. In my research, I discovered that early sweatshirts had V-notches on both front and back, allowing football players to put them on while wearing helmets, with the added stretch providing both flexibility and durability. For the record, a genuine V-notch involves cutting out the fabric and sewing different material, often ribbed, into the gap. Even more details, for those still curious, are available here. (CJN)

Noah here. I’m putting my BRXND Marketing X AI event in LA on February 6, 2025. Friends of WITI get 20% off if you use this link. If you’re a marketer, you should come. If you know a marketer on the West Coast, you should send this their way. Get your tickets now.

If you have any questions, please be in touch.